Pet Vaccines 102 - Common Feline Vaccines

For the the first article on canine vaccines, and a discussion of rabies, click here.

Cats are not just small dogs that will agree to relieve themselves on ground-up clay. They have their own medical (among other) quirks, their own diseases, and with the exception of rabies, their own unique vaccination needs. This article discusses those vaccines and the disease they prevent. Rabies vaccination is recommended (and legally required) for cats as well; we discussed that in the prior article on canine vaccines so I won't repeat myself here.

Feline Distemper Complex (FVRCP)
This is the standard combination vaccine for cats, along the lines of the canine "parvo combo." I'll be the first to admit all the different names and acronyms make talking about it confusing. Most vets, and their medical records, use the acronym FVRCP; I've underlined the letters that acronym comes from below in an attempt to clarify.

• Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (Herpes) and Calicivirus: These are two separate diseases, but they are so similar in how they affect cats that we tend to lump them together. Both primarily cause transient upper respiratory symptoms - sneezing, nasal discharge, lethargy and the like (rhinotracheitis = inflammation of the nose & windpipe). Infection is permanent, and both viruses may flare up temporarily any time the animal is stressed - just like cold sores in people. Herpes commonly causes ulcers on the eyes, while calicivirus more often causes oral ulcers. Both are highly contagious between cats, so it's no surprise that many cats are infected as kittens. So why vaccinate everyone then? Well, if you don't have it you don't want it - and equally important, vaccinating everyone reduces viral spread through the population in the long run.

• Panleukopenia (Feline Parvovirus or Feline Distemper): Yeah, this one has too many names. Here's the scoop - this is very closely related to canine parvovirus, and typically produces the same sort of disease - vomiting, diarrhea, etc. In kittens it also is very effective at damaging white blood cells, hence "panleukopenia," which translates to "all white cells decreased." That's important because that means their immune system is suppressed and thus they become very likely to get secondary diseases. And, in neonates, the disease may damage the nervous system, resulting in problems similar to canine distemper. So that's where all the names and confusion come from. Fortunately, a very effective vaccine comes from your veterinarian so your cats hopefully never need to worry about those details.

Non-Core Vaccines

• Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV): This disease primarily affects white blood cells, potentially turning them cancerous (leukemia). However, the most common effect is a depression of the immune system, leading other illnesses to be more severe and predisposing to secondary infections when sick. It is transmitted via saliva, and cats are most susceptible when young. Thus, an initial series is recommended for all kittens, and adult boosters are recommended for cats that spend time outdoors - potentially exposed to other cats. Since cats may be infected for years before showing signs, testing is also recommended for all cats when young.

• Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV): In many ways similar to FeLV, FIV is basically the feline equivalent of AIDS. It is capable of dramatically depressing the immune system, leading to potentially fatal opportunistic infections. The virus must enter the bloodstream directly, making bite wounds the most common manner of transmission. Vaccinated animals will test positive, meaning there's no way to differentiate vaccination from a sick animal in the future. Considering the efficacy of FIV vaccines is somewhat questionable, vaccination is recommended only on a case-by-case basis, primarily for outdoor male cats - since guys, as always, are more likely to fight. 

So there are your kitty shots in a nutshell. The next article in the series will cover questions about vaccine types, frequency, and risks. Stay tuned!

Pet Vaccines 101 - Common Canine Vaccines

Almost everyone has their pets vaccinated against a variety of diseases. I'm always surprised how few questions I get about what all those needle-pokes are for. Well, if you've ever wondered about the whole story on all those tiny little vials - this series is for you. The first two articles will cover what diseases we vaccinate in dogs, then cats. Then, we'll cover the questions I do get asked on a regular basis - like how often to vaccinate, how vaccines differ, and potential reactions to vaccines.

2009 animal rabies cases (CDC).

Rabies Virus
It's the big one that everyone is familiar with, thanks to the fact that rabies is pretty much 100% fatal once it becomes symptomatic - and therefore your pet is legally required to be vaccinated against it. Transmitted by saliva into open wounds, it travels to the brain where it causes neurological effects ranging from stupor and loss of coordination (the "dumb" form) to violent outbursts (the "vicious" form). The time from infection to symptoms can vary from weeks to several months; after symptoms develop it progresses to death fairly quickly, though.

Pretty much any mammal can get it and give it - to your dog, cat, ferret, or you. Fortunately, human and pet infections are rare in the US nowadays - thanks largely to vaccination. It is very present in the US, however; every state except Hawaii reports anywhere from a handful to hundreds of cases in wild animals annually. The most common carriers are bats, raccoons, skunks and the like.

"Parvo" Vaccine Complex
Pretty much all veterinarians use a combination vaccine that includes parvo, distemper, and hepatitis. These are discussed individually below. Some combo vaccines also include parainfluenza, which is discussed below under "kennel cough."

There are tons of variations on specific
vaccines and combinations.

• Parvovirus: Most folks have heard of this one too, as it is the only disease we routinely vaccinate against that's still relatively common. The virus very efficiently destroys the cells lining the intestines; this leaves the dog unable to digest food, retain water, or keep intestinal bacteria from entering the bloodstream. A malnourished, dehydrated, septic puppy is generally a dead puppy without treatment. On the bright side, if caught early and treated aggressively dogs generally respond well - if they live long enough, they'll generally clear the virus on their own. However, several days in the hospital on intravenous fluids and antibiotics gets costly fast, and is by no means a guarantee.


• Distemper Virus: About 50% of dogs who catch distemper will experience mild general malaise and/or respiratory disease. Unfortunately, the others will develop a potentially fatal infection of the brain and spine; those that survive often have serious long-term neurological problems. All affected dogs will experience severe suppression of the immune system - the virus first attacks white blood cells - and potentially life-threatening secondary infections often occur in any affected dog. You may not hear a lot about it, but it's out there - and it's not a disease to be trifled with.


• Infectious Canine Hepatitis (Canine Adenovirus Type-1): This is a disease that primarily damages the liver, potentially fatally, but it may also affect the eyes, kidneys and other organs, or turn into a chronic, low-grade infection. Fortunately, it's very rare nowadays because of routine vaccination. Interestingly, the vaccine is actually CAV-2, a related virus that causes transient respiratory disease and is part of the "kennel cough" complex discussed below. CAV-2 vaccine provides good cross-protection against the more serious CAV-1, and the old CAV-1 vaccines had more frequent side effects.

Other, Non-Core Vaccines

• "Kennel Cough" - Bordetella bronchiseptica & Parainfluenza Virus: "Kennel cough" is the common term for a group of upper respiratory infections that are generally self-limiting. They generally don't hang around in the environment long, and instead are passed between dogs in close quarters - most commonly, in kennels, at dog parks, or at events like shows or agility contests. Bordetella & parainfluenza are two of the more common culprits, and the primary ones we vaccinate against. They aren't consider "core" vaccines, since many dogs never board at a kennel and have minimal contact with other pets - but they are highly recommend for those who do, and required to stay at kennels.


• Leptospirosis: Lepto is a bacterial disease that can shut down the kidneys and may damage other organs like the liver. That's bad. It's also something you can get, though good oral hygiene minimizes risks (making it mostly a concern for children). The majority of mammals can carry it, sometimes without major symptoms, and transmit it via urine. We all know what dogs do when they find urine, hence why they're prone to it. Risk levels vary from area to area, so talk to your veterinarian. However, if you travel with your pets it is a good idea regardless.


• Lyme Disease: This bacterial disease is most commonly associated with severe arthritis, though it can also seriously damage organs such as the kidneys. It's transmitted by ticks, and is also known as borreliosis after the bacteria that causes it. This is another fairly region-specific disease, with the east coast and Great Lakes regions being at greatest risk, so talk to your vet.

Continue to the next article, Pet Vaccines 102 - Common Feline Vaccines

Leaving On A Jet Plane - International Travel & Pets

Traveling across town to with your pet in the car can be an adventure; traveling outside the country with your pet can be like navigating between the Scylla and Charybdis. I should know. I currently run an Air Force clinic, and we help people get their furry family members overseas on a daily basis. Every single country in the world gets to make its own decisions about what hoops you need to jump through to import your pet. They also get to change them whenever they want.

This article is geared toward travel outside North America (including Hawaii). Mexico and Canada are fortunately pretty easy to travel between. For travel outside North America with your pet the best advice I can give you is this - start early (like yesterday), research thoroughly, and double-check everything. You will need at least a month's lead time, and for countries like Japan you may need six months or more.

This is also one situation where I'll tell you your veterinarian is not the expert; few vets ever send pets to Japan, let alone Moldova. They'll do everything they can to help, but ultimately it's your responsibility to become the expert and make sure everything Muffy needs to get where you're going is taken care of. This article should give you the tools to turn yourself into that expert. If you're serious about this, you might also start by make yourself a nice, calming cup of chamomile.

Before You Do Anything Else:

1. Contact the consulate of the country you are traveling to; this is the horse's mouth, so to speak, when it comes to what is required to get into that country. You must do what they require or they can detain your pet. You must know what the current and specific requirements are. 


2. APHIS is another good resource for export regulations. The country in question has the final word, but the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service maintains information on most countries at the website above, which may (or may not) help to clarify instructions from the consulate.


3. Research airlines. They all get to make their own rules about what can fly, how it flies, and how much it costs. Pets with significant health issues may be okay to fly in the cabin, but they should not fly in cargo - often that is the only option for international travel. Your flight plan is an additional consideration; if you have a layover in a country other than the destination you might need to make import arrangements for that country too.


4. Check out this article for tips on making travel less stressful for you and your pet.

Things You WILL Need:

1. Current rabies vaccination and certificate: Usually this must be done at least a month prior to travel, and for some countries can be six months or longer. This is currently all you need for Canada. Vaccination must also occur after microchip implantation.


2. Veterinary health certificate: Your vet will need to examine your pet and sign a form attesting that they are in good health and free of disease. APHIS Form 7001 is good for general travel; however, many countries require special certificates (especially if English is not the national language). Contact the country's consulate or check with APHIS to be sure. 


3. ISO Compliant microchip: Unfortunately, some US microchips may not work for international travel. ISO-compliant 134.2kHz chips are the current international standard. Check your pet's number, if it's 15 digits you're OK. If not, you'll need to get a new chip or bring a scanner with you. Excepting a few unique situations, I wouldn't recommend the later. A scanner costs $150-$200, and more importantly, if your pet were lost while traveling no one could read the chip to get them back to you.


4. USDA endorsement: Generally, you will be required to visit your local USDA office after getting a health certificate from your regular vet. You do not need to bring your pet with you, just all the documentation. They will make sure everything is in order, which is great since small mistakes - which can lead to big problems at foreign airports - are easy to make in this process.

Things You MAY Need:

1. Anti-Parasite Treatment: Many countries require treatment for parasites shortly before travel. This generally needs to be given by your veterinarian and attested to on the health certificate, so make the appointment with that in mind. As a side note, it may be worth considering a broad-spectrum deworming when you get home as a precaution against any unwanted stowaways in Muffy's gut. Talk to your vet.


2. Other Vaccines: Since they all get to make their own rules, countries may require all sorts of vaccines or treatments. Guam, for instance, requires Coronavirus vaccination...which is pretty silly if you ask me, since the vaccine is junk and the disease isn't very serious. But no one asks me, and if you want to take your pet overseas you have to play by that country's rules, period. It's also a good idea to ask your vet if there's anything Muffy hasn't had that might be recommended - Bordetella (kennel cough) and leptospirosis in particular.


3. FAVN (rabies) testing: This is a special blood test that verifies your pet has enough antibodies against rabies to prevent infection - in other words, that the pet was effectively vaccinated. It is required for import into most rabies-free countries and quite a few others as well. This often requires a lot of planning and time, since:

• Your pet generally needs at least two prior rabies vaccinations, at least two weeks prior to testing.
• At least one vaccination must happen after microchip implantation.
• Getting results often takes 2-4 weeks.
• After the test, there is usually a minimum waiting period before importation of anywhere from 3 weeks to 6 months.
• There's always the possibility your pet fails the test - though this is unlikely if they have a good vaccination history.

Your veterinarian likely runs few, if any, FAVN tests; look like a genius and tell them they can send the blood to Kansas State University for testing. Likewise, if there are any unusual vaccines, treatments, or forms required your veterinarian may need a significant heads-up period to get what you need, or may need to send you to another vet. Hardly anyone stocks coronavirus vaccine, for instance.

If you've read all this and you still want to travel internationally with your pet...I admire your fortitude. You either really love Muffy, or you're crazy. Probably a little of both. But with preparation and planning, it is manageable. 

Quick Tips for Pet Travel

Maybe you're headed on a big cross-country road trip. Maybe it's just a weekend with the in-laws a few hours away. Whatever the occasion, traveling with pets can be fun, exciting....and stressful. Poorly planned, it might even be dangerous. Today's article covers several easy tips to lower the stress level and keep things safe, so you can focus on relaxing and having a good time together.

Bear in mind this just refers to domestic travel by car; airlines and international travel are different beasts that will be covered in future articles.

1. Bring plenty of extra food / medications: This is an obvious one...so it should be no surprise it's the most common one folks forget. Imagine running out of food, having to substitute something else, and triggering a nice bout of diarrhea. While driving. In your car.


2. Seatbelts / carriers:  I'm not going to lie - my dog usually rides shotgun, unrestrained. He's also been dumped forcefully into the floor when I've had to slam the brakes. That wouldn't happen if I was smart enough to practice what I preach and get a pet seatbelt. Excited pets bouncing around the cabin isn't conducive to safe driving, either.


3. Windows up: I once witnessed a Yorkie jump out of the car window as it drove by the vet clinic I was working at. Good timing, I guess - but it nearly killed him.


4. LEASHES!: Never let your dog (or cat, or iguana) off leash in an unfamiliar place. I don't care how much you know/trust them - the unfamiliar sights, sounds, and smells could provide the unexpected surprise that leaves you spending the day searching for them, or worse.


5. Dealing with anxiety and car-sickness: Pheremone collars (DAP or Feliway) can help many pets with mild travel anxiety. For motion sickness or more significant anxiety, talk to your vet about Benadryl and other options.


6. Current flea & tick prevention: Make sure your pet's flea prevention will cover the duration of the trip; no one wants to finish off a vacation with a bunch of nasty new house guests. Do this even if you don't normally use a flea preventative - trust me. 


7. Microchips: Make sure your pet's microchip is registered to your current address. If they don't have a microchip consider getting one

Here are a few more things you may want to ring your veterinarian's office for:

1. Get a record or certificate of all vaccinations (and make sure they are up-to-date): Most hotels require up-to-date rabies vaccination at a minimum. Tell them where you are going, and ask if there are any other vaccines they'd recommend. These may include Bordetella, Leptospirosis, lyme disease, or others.


2. If your pet has any major medical history - chronic diseases under treatment or past major surgeries - ask for a copy of the medical record to take with you. Hopefully your pet won't need veterinary care during the trip, but if they do that record may be invaluable.


3. Ask your veterinarian about an official health certificate: may be required to enter certain states or to stay at some hotels, and all airlines require them. Your veterinarian can provide one after a thorough physical exam - which is itself valuable, since more than once I've picked up problems owners weren't aware of that might make travel a bad idea. Health certificates may only be good for a limited time (10 days for airlines), so set your appointment appropriately.

First Aid - How & When To Make Your Pet Puke

A bandage eaten by a dog. The ironic part?
It was from his tail amputation, which
resulted from his attempts to eat said tail.
He was not to be deterred.

Pets eat stuff. Sometimes things you, I, or even your average indiscriminate 3 year-old would never dream of eating. This first-aid article is about how to make your pet vomit that stuff back up again; but that's pretty simple (I know what you cat owners out there are thinking: all I need to make Muffy puke is a nice pair of shoes). The tough part is knowing when it's okay to do so - because in many situations inducing vomiting can make things WORSE. On the other hand, quickly getting certain toxins out of your pet could also save their life. So, this article is mostly about knowing the difference between those situations. Then we'll wrap up with quick instructions on inducing vomiting, without ruining your favorite shoes.

First thing's first - if your pet has eaten something you think may be harmful, call your vet or Animal Poison Control before attempting anything on your own. That's the guaranteed way to make sure you don't wind up doing more harm than good. It's also very possible your pet will need to go in for further treatment or monitoring. Oh, and one other thing - don't panic. That never helps, eh?

When You Should NEVER Induce Vomiting

• Your pet is in any way sedated, confused, weakened, or mentally altered: If their consciousness is altered, they may not be able to keep the vomit from getting into their windpipe - making a bad situation far worse.
• Household chemicals (detergents, cleaners, pesticides, etc): many of these are inherently caustic and can do much more damage coming back up again. Pesticides usually aren't harmful coming back up, but many can cause neurological effects (see #1) that predispose to aspirating stuff back into the lungs.
• Petroleum products: if they get into the airways on the way back up, they'll wreak all kinds of havoc.
• Anything sharp, or potentially sharp: It could puncture the esophagus or stomach in the process. Vomiting can be a good way to deal with ingestion of small foreign bodies, but it's best to leave that call to your vet - I generally recommend x-rays first (who knows what else is in there) and in-hospital monitoring (in case of choking) if we're going to try this.
• Your pet recently had surgery. 

Looking around the web for other's thoughts on the subject, I noticed many warnings against inducing vomiting if...they're already vomiting. Kinda seems that would go without saying - I guess my readers are smarter than theirs. Many also recommend against inducing vomiting if it's been over two hours; that's a textbook number for how long it should take to digest something. I haven't caught a dog reading a textbook yet, but I have seen more than a few toss stuff up long after it "should" have been digested. Often folks don't know when it happened, for that matter, and I wouldn't obsess over that 2 hour mark - though it's a good rule of thumb.

When TO Induce Vomiting

If you've ruled out all the above contraindications, and talked to your vet or APC, it's likely a good idea to induce vomiting if your pet has recently eaten the following:

• Potentially harmful foods.
• Prescription medications (yours, or overdoses of theirs)
• Antifreeze (caveat - this needs to happen fast, as it is absorbed very fast)
• Rodent poisons

What To Do AFTER Inducing Vomiting

Yes, we'll get to inducing vomiting in a minute. What you do next is extremely important, and I don't want you to stop reading after the punchline (like I would). 

• Obtain some of the vomit for potential ID by your vet.
• Gather the packages or product inserts for whatever you think they got into. We need to see the ingredient lists - I've got no idea what's in "Super Cleaner X."
• Closely monitor your pet.
• Unless you've talked to them and they told you not to, head to your vet's office or the nearest pet ER. Your pet's life could depend on further treatment; this isn't the time to "wait and see."

How To Induce Vomiting

Okay, here's the moment you've all been waiting for! 

• If your pet is a cat, stop reading: Don't try this unless specifically instructed by your vet. Peroxide makes kitty guts very unhappy.
• If your pet hasn't eaten much recently, offer a small meal: Bread is good, since it sponges stuff up. It's tough to vomit thoroughly when there isn't much in the stomach.
• Grab some 3% hydrogen peroxide - DO NOT use anything other than 3%: Stronger peroxide formulas like the stuff beauticians use can kill your pet.
• Get 1 milliliter per 2 lb into your pet: There's about 5ml in a teaspoon, so that's 1/2tsp for a 5lb chihuahuah or 4tsp for a 40lb border collie. Don't exceed 45ml per dose. You can use a syringe or turkey baster, but often if you just mix it in some ice cream or milk they'll do the work for you. You can repeat that dose once if it hasn't worked in 15 minutes.
• Get a towel: Put it in the back seat of your car. It's probably going to take 5-15 minutes to work, and you should be on your way to the vet. Yet another reason you should only do this if your vet tells you it's necessary, eh?
• Do all those things listed above in "AFTER Inducing Vomiting": Seriously.

Lastly, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER (!) induce vomiting on your own if your pet ingests large denominations of money. Leave that to the professionals - call me at home, I'll take care of it. I'll need to keep the evidence, of course - you don't want a bunch of nasty vomit-covered hundred dollar bills anyway, right?

Is Pet Insurance For Me?

By Dr. Courtney Smock

I have recently been asked my opinion about pet insurance several times by friends and family, and it seems to be a question on the rise among clients as well. While a quick comparison between the costs of identical services at human vs. veterinary hospitals makes clear that vet care is one heck of a value, that still doesn't mean it is cheap. Particularly when the bill is coming out of your pocket, not Humana's or Blue Cross'. We want the best care for out pets, and it's no surprise an increasing number of people are looking toward insurance plans to afford that care. But are they a good deal for everyone?

As with any free-market product, there are almost as many choices for pet health insurance as there are pets.  However, with little exception, they all share an operational feature: YOU pay the bill at the veterinary clinic, submit your claim, and get reimbursed (or not!) at a later date.  This is an extremely important point to consider before anything else - even though pet insurance may help offset your costs in the future, you are still responsible for the entire bill in the present.  So, if you cannot temporarily access a few thousand dollars for an emergency situation (think tapping into savings, a high interest rate credit card you wouldn't normally use, or borrowing from friends and family), then pet insurance is not going to do squat for you, because there will probably be very little veterinary care happening.

Well then, what is pet insurance for?  Like any insurance, it is a tool to mitigate your expenses should something unfortunate happen.  But pet insurance is unique in the respect that it may help you make a difficult medical care decision should something unfortunate happen to your pet.  Let me give you two examples:

• At your dog’s yearly wellness visit, the veterinarian tells you that she feels a mass in Muffy’s belly.  X-rays suggest that it is a tumor in the spleen.  Your vet explains that there is a decent chance the tumor is benign, meaning that surgical removal of the spleen could be 100% curative.  If you do nothing, Muffy’s spleen could rupture, leading to fatal blood loss.  The estimate for surgery is $1500.  You have a credit card you could use, but every dollar is already spoken for in your budget and you don’t know how you will be able to make payments.  Pet insurance might allow you to authorize the surgery, knowing that most of the cost will be reimbursed in your insurance payout.  
• Your happy-go-lucky lab puppy gets loose at the dog park and is hit by a car (Dog forbid).  Fortunately there are no mortal wounds, but one of her legs is broken in the incident.  The vet says the fracture is too complicated and will need to go to a specialist for repair - but all those plates, screws, rechecks and the expertise of the surgical specialist are going to run $3000-$4000.  Otherwise, the fracture won't heal and the only humane thing to do is to remove the leg.  Pet insurance could save the leg without amputating your savings in turn.  

I used to tell clients that I didn’t think pet insurance was a good value; that they should take the money they would pay in premiums each month and put it in a dedicated pet savings account.  The problem with this recommendation is that if aforementioned puppy goes on the lam and you’ve only had time to save $60, that’s not really much help.  Now I amend that statement to say that if you have $2-5,000 to put in a dedicated savings account for your pet, or some other way to access that kind of money in an emergency, you definitely don’t NEED pet insurance.  However, if the idea of dropping five grand on Muffy’s prolonged hospital stay when she breaks her elbow jumping out of your handbag makes your stomach turn, you may still WANT pet insurance.

In the interest of full disclosure, I will freely admit that my pets are not insured, nor do I have $5,000 socked away in a pet savings account.  If, dear reader, you are still with me, and still thinking about getting pet insurance, then consider these KEY POINTS:

1. Remember that insurance providers are businesses, and they wouldn’t offer this service if they didn’t make a profit – you may break even or come out ahead financially, but the odds are not in your favor, so that should not be the main factor in your decision.
2. Wellness care (annual exam, vaccines, spay/neuter surgery, heartworm testing and preventative) is an expense that can be anticipated and for which you can save – I do not recommend insuring for wellness care.
3.  For the love of Dog, READ and be sure you understand any policy in full before committing (See point #1 above)!  Particularly be on the lookout for pre-existing condition exclusions and waiting periods, breed-related exclusions, and maximum payout details. If you have questions, talk to your veterinarian.
4. Go to Dr. Frances Wilkerson's site, Pet Insurance University.  Aside from an excellent article series on how pet insurance works and why you would consider it, she provides detailed reviews on all the major plans for easy comparison.

Quick Tips For Low-Stress Vet Visits

Imagine your mother dropped by this morning with a very large box; without words or explanation she unceremoniously forced you into it, then tossed you in the car and took off. Eventually the car stops and she lugs you into the doctor's office (she's stronger than she looks, that mother of yours). She doesn't seem to understand your repeated questions, so you still have no idea what's going on or why you're here. However, several others seem to be in similar situations. Some are in boxes like you, others are tied to ropes - there's one person who won't stop shouting nonsense, another urinating on a chair leg, and one guy who won't stop trying to lick everyone in the face. Eventually you're taken into another room, dumped out of the box and onto your keister, then poked and prodded for no apparent reason by some strange woman in a white coat. They finish off with a couple of unexpected shots in the rump, then good ol' mom shoves you back in the box and drives you home.

Yeah, I guess that might be a little stressful. 

A little food cajoles most cats...

For some pets there may be no such thing as a "stress-free" vet visit, but we can reduce that stress to manageable levels. It's also important to note that animals deal with stress differently, just like people - some may growl or cower, but acting overly submissive or affectionate can be less-obvious signs too. Today's article covers several simple things you can do to make veterinary visits easier on your furry housemate's nerves (and in turn, your own).

Setting Expectations
Animals are bright, fast learners. If that cat carrier, leash, or car ride always culminates in getting poked in the butt by a stranger, it won't take them long to start freaking out at the first sign trouble is on it's way. I have one diabetic patient whose owner tells me Tiny's fine in the car if they turn left out of the driveway - but turning right always means the vet, and blood draws, and one instantly ticked-off Tiny. Fortunately, pets make positive associations just as easily, so you can undo most of this stress with a little effort.

....and the odd dog. This one
is more odd than most.

• Get in the habit of setting the cat carrier out once or twice a week with a treat or toy in it. They'll be eager to get in the next time you need to use it for travel.
• Likewise, take your dog on fun leash walks around the neighborhood regularly if you don't already.
• Once they are good with the paraphernalia, start taking your dog or cat on short car trips. Bring a food reward or two to make it fun - some fast food places like Sonic keep dog treats at the drive-thru so you can both get a little positive reinforcement.
• Placing a familiar-smelling item like a blanket in the car or carrier also helps pets relax.
• Drop by the vet clinic occasionally with Muffy, just to say hello or check their weight. Bring a favorite reward and ask a staff member to offer it.

On a related note, I highly recommend the pet carriers with snap-on tops. It's so much less stressful on everyone to just pop the top off, instead of prying Muffy out only to force her back in afterwards.

There's Stress In Numbers
Stress is additive and contagious. It's tempting to try getting all the pets in at once, and make it a family-fun event, but....Take two hyperactive kids, one mother shouting for them to calm down, then add in your incessantly barking Beagle-buddy to boot, and even the calmest Shih Tzu in the world is going to be on edge.

• Making veterinary visits an adults-only, single pet endeavor can really go a long way toward lowering the stress levels for everyone - you included. Plus, you get a lot more for your money when you can focus on asking questions and listening to the staff's recommendations without extra kids, furry or otherwise, vying for your attention. 
• If your significant other likes to argue or won't let you get a word in edgewise, get them a sitter too (my wife says her spouse is like that...). 
• On the other hand, if you are stressed out - which is okay, and often understandable - your pet will sense that and follow suit. It's always okay to ask to wait outside during the exam, and sometimes it really is less stressful for everyone.

The same strategies can be applied when choosing a vet or setting an appointment:

• Some clinics have started providing separate waiting areas for cats and exotics, since a room full of barking dogs is pretty much guaranteed to stress them out. 
• If you're flexible, asking for an appointment at a slower time of day is a good move too.
• Lastly, the discount walk-in shot clinic is almost guaranteed to have a waiting room full of chaos; that's one of many arguments for paying a little more to see the doctor down the street.

Better Living Through Chemistry
Of course, there are a few pets out there who just aren't going to adapt well to the clinic, car, or carrier no matter what you try. For those guys, there are varying levels of "chemical intervention" we can try to help them out.

What, you don't recognize Benadryl?

• Mild Anxiety: Pheromone sprays or collars like Feliway and D.A.P. may be helpful. They're also useful initially in conjunction with the above techniques to take the edge off.
• Moderate Anxiety: Ask your vet about trying Benadryl. It often provides some sedation and is quite safe for most animals at the proper dose - again, ask your vet.
• Severe Anxiety: There are several sedatives and anxiolytics that can be life-savers for dogs that truly need them; all have the potential for significant side-effects and require a prescription, however, so a good chat with your vet is in order. Furthermore, pets who need this level of intervention for a trip to the vet likely have other behavior issues that need addressed.

Lastly, but probably most important - if the stress of veterinary visits is truly tough on you and your pet, consider making an appointment solely to discuss this issue and come up with a plan of attack. You can even consider a consultation without your pet, if need be. Fortunately, though, most dogs and cats can learn to manage a trip to the vet with a just a bit of work and forethought on your part. I'm really not that bad. Plus, I have treats.