Holiday Pet Survival Guide

Give up the toys! 

I'm pretty sure pets love the holiday season just as much as I do. Think about it - for a month or two shiny new toys get hung up all over the house, the whole house smells like food, and lots of gullible friends and relatives wander in and out who are much more likely to fall prey to puppy-dog eyes and give you some of whatever they've got handy. And, if you're lucky, you get into enough trouble for a visit to your favorite person - the veterinarian!

Okay, so maybe we aren't your pet's favorite person (second favorite? third?). Unfortunately, that is an all-too-common holiday scenario. So, if you'd like to give Muffy the gift of staying away from me this season, read on for simple tips to keep pets safe and healthy during the holidays.

They Call It "People-Food" For A Reason
Human foods may agree quite well with pet's mouths, but they often disagree quite strongly with their stomachs. While eating random table scraps and treats usually just causes a day or two's discomfort, there are very, very, very  (!) serious problems that may result:

• Many common foods - and holiday treats in particular - can be deadly toxins for pets.
• Pancreatitis is a life-threatening condition that may be triggered by fatty foods.
• Bones - all bones - commonly result in fractured teeth, intestinal obstruction, and even stomach perforation.

Last but not least, holiday treats are a leading cause of Food-Amplified Tissue (FAT) syndrome, which can take a year or two off your pet's life (and lead to a lecture from me about putting Muffy on a diet).

Curiosity Can Kill The Cat - Decorate Carefully!
The holidays bring lots of exciting things for pets - shiny tinsel, ribbons galore, electrical cords running everywhere, and a big green scratching/climbing post right in the living room!

• Strings and ribbons can be deadly if ingested - aside from causing blockages, they can saw right through intestines - and the only thing more interesting to most cats than string is a shiny string. Keep tinsel and ribbon well out of reach or avoid them entirely.
• Anchor your tree to the ceiling or wall to keep anyone from tipping it over. Fake trees are best, too, since pine needles can also poke through intestines if ingested.
• Missletoe, Holly, and Ivy can all make your pets ill. Check out this link from the ASPCA for a laundry list of other problem plants.
• Try to keep all those extra electrical wires neat and hidden.
• Don't leave candles unattended, and make sure pets can't reach them or otherwise knock them over.

Curiosity Can Kill The Cat (Again) - Keep Things Tidy! 

These bars will not hold me. I will eat
your toys, and garbage, and shoelaces.
I will eat them all.

My wife is going to laugh when she reads this - me, telling people to keep things neat and clean. But, a big part of keeping pets from getting into things they shouldn't is preventing access, so:

• Clean the kitchen as you go, and don't leave bowls of candy and the like out where pets can reach them.
• Pick up all the wrapping paper and ribbons immediately after opening gifts. December 26th is usually paper/ribbon/string foreign body day at the ER.
• Don't let the kids (or your husband) leave new toys laying around, else they get confused for chew toys, food, or both.
• If you have a ferret, lock it in the bathroom with food and water until late January. Okay - that's a little extreme, but those buggers get into everything!

Respect Pet's Personality and Space 
Some pets are social butterflies, but many just get stressed by the all the people and commotion that come with holiday parties. It's never wrong to put the furry kids in a room of their own for the evening and let them have some peace and quiet. And even if they do enjoy a good party and are given roam of the house, you should provide a room or crate for them that's off-limits to guests in case they do need some alone time. New Year's Eve is a particular problem for many pets, with the potential for lots of noise and even fireworks - this article offers some tips for pets with noise fears.

Also make sure any random children the in-laws drag along only get to interact with pets while supervised, as kids who aren't used to pets usually don't understand "boundaries" at all. Or, suggest putting the kid in the spare room with food and water while the pets roam free. That usually goes over poorly with their parents, though.

Choosing Pet Gifts

Best. Christmas. EVER!

I'm all for a new toy or special treat for the holidays. Seriously, send me something. Oh, and get the pets something too - just be thoughtful in your selection.

• Toys should be resistant to shredding into small, ingest-able bits. 
• Also avoid super-hard chewables like Nylabones. These are a big cause of fractured teeth. My rule of thumb: bit down hard on it yourself - if there's no give or the pressure hurts you, Muffy shouldn't have it either. Plus, it's really amusing for anyone walking by in the pet isle.
• Avoid treats made in China, or anywhere else with questionable regulatory oversight.

Educate Your Guests

You, dear reader, are smart enough to take all this advice and avoid any unexpected visits to me and my ilk this holiday season. But it's all for naught if you set a couple dozen folks loose in your home who really think Muffy needs that turkey bone, chocolate candy, ball of yarn to play with/eat...or that despite her pulled back ears and snarl, she really just needs a belly rub right now. Make sure your guests know what is and isn't okay. If educational enlightenment doesn't seem to work, consider threatening them with fruitcake. Works for me.

Two final tidbits: make sure all pets have up-to-date ID (tags, microchips, or both) in case someone leaves a door open, and check out this article if you plan to travel with Muffy this season. Happy holidays!

Pet Vaccines 103 - How Vaccines Do (And Don't) Work

So, we've talked about the diseases we commonly vaccinate for in the first (canine) and second (feline) articles. Now we'll offer up some answers for the questions we commonly field about vaccines.

How do vaccines protect my pet from disease?

That's a deceptively simple question, considering how complicated Muffy's immune system is. The basic idea is easy enough to grasp, however. In order for your immune system to fight off an invading disease, it first needs to identify it. In the cellular soup that is the living body, when something new and harmful comes along it can take some time to identify it - time you often don't have when under attack by disease. Remember how much of the town got wiped out in Invasion of the Body Snatchers before folks figured out how to tell who's who? So, vaccines contain bits of the offending virus or bacteria that have been rendered harmless, giving your immune system a "heads up" on what to look for if infected in the future. That means they can take care of the enemy before it becomes a problem, instead of wasting time trying to figure out who the enemy is.

What's actually in those vaccines?

There are three basic types of vaccines. 

• Killed vaccines are basically busted-up bits of a virus or bacteria. They contain important proteins your immune system can recognize and learn to differentiate in the future, but everything's dead so the virus or bacteria can't spread or cause disease. 
• Modified live vaccines actually can multiply in the body, but they've been altered by the kids in the lab so they no longer cause disease. These generally produce much better immunity since your immune system gets exposed to a lot more virus. 
• Recombinant vaccines take the best of both worlds - generally, a harmless virus (yup, probably the majority of viruses out there cause no real harm) is injected with a few genes that allow it to produce a few proteins that are specific to the disease we want to vaccinate against. It's sort of like a good samaritan going door-to-door with photos of annoying door-to-door salesmen so you know when not to open the door.

Are vaccines 100% effective?

Realistically, nothing is 100%, but most manufactures claim efficacy of 100% or at least the upper 90's for the "core" vaccines. Non-core vaccines like leptospirosis, FeLV, and FIV sport lower numbers but are generally still pretty good - in the case of lepto, sometimes even if disease isn't prevented, a reduction in severity could be life saving. 

It's also worth noting that a very small percentage of animals will be "non-responders" to a particular vaccine - for whatever reason, there immune system won't recognize and mount a response. Another potential reason for failure is mishandling of the vaccines, which generally are sensitive to temperature - this is the main reason buying and giving vaccines yourself is a bad idea. I threw out $800 worth of vaccines a few months back when a refrigerator died over the weekend - I frankly don't trust the kid at the feed store or the businessman running a mail-order outfit to do that.

What's "herd immunity?"

Okay, so no one's ever actually asked me about the concept of herd immunity. But it's worth bringing up here. Basically, the idea is that if you create immunity to a disease in a majority of a population through vaccination, the individuals who don't develop immunity (from failure or lack of vaccination) get a sort of second-hand protection, since you've drastically decreased the odds of them being exposed to the disease. Imagine 100 people in an office. If 90 of them get flu shots, you've just reduced the risk of exposure to the flu at the office by 90% for the other 10 folks. So, even if a vaccine isn't 100% effective for everyone, if everyone gets it they'll be well protected regardless (and that's how you end smallpox, kids). 

As an aside, this is why I tend to think of vaccination (both animal and human) as a social responsibility - those 10 folks who didn't get the flu shot are not only freeloading on everyone else's vaccines, but they're serving as a potential reservoir for the disease, too.

So, two big questions remain - how frequently should pets be vaccinated, and what are the risks of vaccinating (hint: they're a lot less than not vaccinating). We'll get to them next, but for now I'll let "herd" immunity serve as an excuse to leave you with the following video.

Pet Vaccines 102 - Common Feline Vaccines

For the the first article on canine vaccines, and a discussion of rabies, click here.

Cats are not just small dogs that will agree to relieve themselves on ground-up clay. They have their own medical (among other) quirks, their own diseases, and with the exception of rabies, their own unique vaccination needs. This article discusses those vaccines and the disease they prevent. Rabies vaccination is recommended (and legally required) for cats as well; we discussed that in the prior article on canine vaccines so I won't repeat myself here.

Feline Distemper Complex (FVRCP)
This is the standard combination vaccine for cats, along the lines of the canine "parvo combo." I'll be the first to admit all the different names and acronyms make talking about it confusing. Most vets, and their medical records, use the acronym FVRCP; I've underlined the letters that acronym comes from below in an attempt to clarify.

• Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (Herpes) and Calicivirus: These are two separate diseases, but they are so similar in how they affect cats that we tend to lump them together. Both primarily cause transient upper respiratory symptoms - sneezing, nasal discharge, lethargy and the like (rhinotracheitis = inflammation of the nose & windpipe). Infection is permanent, and both viruses may flare up temporarily any time the animal is stressed - just like cold sores in people. Herpes commonly causes ulcers on the eyes, while calicivirus more often causes oral ulcers. Both are highly contagious between cats, so it's no surprise that many cats are infected as kittens. So why vaccinate everyone then? Well, if you don't have it you don't want it - and equally important, vaccinating everyone reduces viral spread through the population in the long run.

• Panleukopenia (Feline Parvovirus or Feline Distemper): Yeah, this one has too many names. Here's the scoop - this is very closely related to canine parvovirus, and typically produces the same sort of disease - vomiting, diarrhea, etc. In kittens it also is very effective at damaging white blood cells, hence "panleukopenia," which translates to "all white cells decreased." That's important because that means their immune system is suppressed and thus they become very likely to get secondary diseases. And, in neonates, the disease may damage the nervous system, resulting in problems similar to canine distemper. So that's where all the names and confusion come from. Fortunately, a very effective vaccine comes from your veterinarian so your cats hopefully never need to worry about those details.

Non-Core Vaccines

• Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV): This disease primarily affects white blood cells, potentially turning them cancerous (leukemia). However, the most common effect is a depression of the immune system, leading other illnesses to be more severe and predisposing to secondary infections when sick. It is transmitted via saliva, and cats are most susceptible when young. Thus, an initial series is recommended for all kittens, and adult boosters are recommended for cats that spend time outdoors - potentially exposed to other cats. Since cats may be infected for years before showing signs, testing is also recommended for all cats when young.

• Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV): In many ways similar to FeLV, FIV is basically the feline equivalent of AIDS. It is capable of dramatically depressing the immune system, leading to potentially fatal opportunistic infections. The virus must enter the bloodstream directly, making bite wounds the most common manner of transmission. Vaccinated animals will test positive, meaning there's no way to differentiate vaccination from a sick animal in the future. Considering the efficacy of FIV vaccines is somewhat questionable, vaccination is recommended only on a case-by-case basis, primarily for outdoor male cats - since guys, as always, are more likely to fight. 

So there are your kitty shots in a nutshell. The next article in the series will cover questions about vaccine types, frequency, and risks. Stay tuned!

Pet Vaccines 101 - Common Canine Vaccines

Almost everyone has their pets vaccinated against a variety of diseases. I'm always surprised how few questions I get about what all those needle-pokes are for. Well, if you've ever wondered about the whole story on all those tiny little vials - this series is for you. The first two articles will cover what diseases we vaccinate in dogs, then cats. Then, we'll cover the questions I do get asked on a regular basis - like how often to vaccinate, how vaccines differ, and potential reactions to vaccines.

2009 animal rabies cases (CDC).

Rabies Virus
It's the big one that everyone is familiar with, thanks to the fact that rabies is pretty much 100% fatal once it becomes symptomatic - and therefore your pet is legally required to be vaccinated against it. Transmitted by saliva into open wounds, it travels to the brain where it causes neurological effects ranging from stupor and loss of coordination (the "dumb" form) to violent outbursts (the "vicious" form). The time from infection to symptoms can vary from weeks to several months; after symptoms develop it progresses to death fairly quickly, though.

Pretty much any mammal can get it and give it - to your dog, cat, ferret, or you. Fortunately, human and pet infections are rare in the US nowadays - thanks largely to vaccination. It is very present in the US, however; every state except Hawaii reports anywhere from a handful to hundreds of cases in wild animals annually. The most common carriers are bats, raccoons, skunks and the like.

"Parvo" Vaccine Complex
Pretty much all veterinarians use a combination vaccine that includes parvo, distemper, and hepatitis. These are discussed individually below. Some combo vaccines also include parainfluenza, which is discussed below under "kennel cough."

There are tons of variations on specific
vaccines and combinations.

• Parvovirus: Most folks have heard of this one too, as it is the only disease we routinely vaccinate against that's still relatively common. The virus very efficiently destroys the cells lining the intestines; this leaves the dog unable to digest food, retain water, or keep intestinal bacteria from entering the bloodstream. A malnourished, dehydrated, septic puppy is generally a dead puppy without treatment. On the bright side, if caught early and treated aggressively dogs generally respond well - if they live long enough, they'll generally clear the virus on their own. However, several days in the hospital on intravenous fluids and antibiotics gets costly fast, and is by no means a guarantee.


• Distemper Virus: About 50% of dogs who catch distemper will experience mild general malaise and/or respiratory disease. Unfortunately, the others will develop a potentially fatal infection of the brain and spine; those that survive often have serious long-term neurological problems. All affected dogs will experience severe suppression of the immune system - the virus first attacks white blood cells - and potentially life-threatening secondary infections often occur in any affected dog. You may not hear a lot about it, but it's out there - and it's not a disease to be trifled with.


• Infectious Canine Hepatitis (Canine Adenovirus Type-1): This is a disease that primarily damages the liver, potentially fatally, but it may also affect the eyes, kidneys and other organs, or turn into a chronic, low-grade infection. Fortunately, it's very rare nowadays because of routine vaccination. Interestingly, the vaccine is actually CAV-2, a related virus that causes transient respiratory disease and is part of the "kennel cough" complex discussed below. CAV-2 vaccine provides good cross-protection against the more serious CAV-1, and the old CAV-1 vaccines had more frequent side effects.

Other, Non-Core Vaccines

• "Kennel Cough" - Bordetella bronchiseptica & Parainfluenza Virus: "Kennel cough" is the common term for a group of upper respiratory infections that are generally self-limiting. They generally don't hang around in the environment long, and instead are passed between dogs in close quarters - most commonly, in kennels, at dog parks, or at events like shows or agility contests. Bordetella & parainfluenza are two of the more common culprits, and the primary ones we vaccinate against. They aren't consider "core" vaccines, since many dogs never board at a kennel and have minimal contact with other pets - but they are highly recommend for those who do, and required to stay at kennels.


• Leptospirosis: Lepto is a bacterial disease that can shut down the kidneys and may damage other organs like the liver. That's bad. It's also something you can get, though good oral hygiene minimizes risks (making it mostly a concern for children). The majority of mammals can carry it, sometimes without major symptoms, and transmit it via urine. We all know what dogs do when they find urine, hence why they're prone to it. Risk levels vary from area to area, so talk to your veterinarian. However, if you travel with your pets it is a good idea regardless.


• Lyme Disease: This bacterial disease is most commonly associated with severe arthritis, though it can also seriously damage organs such as the kidneys. It's transmitted by ticks, and is also known as borreliosis after the bacteria that causes it. This is another fairly region-specific disease, with the east coast and Great Lakes regions being at greatest risk, so talk to your vet.

Continue to the next article, Pet Vaccines 102 - Common Feline Vaccines

Leaving On A Jet Plane - International Travel & Pets

Traveling across town to with your pet in the car can be an adventure; traveling outside the country with your pet can be like navigating between the Scylla and Charybdis. I should know. I currently run an Air Force clinic, and we help people get their furry family members overseas on a daily basis. Every single country in the world gets to make its own decisions about what hoops you need to jump through to import your pet. They also get to change them whenever they want.

This article is geared toward travel outside North America (including Hawaii). Mexico and Canada are fortunately pretty easy to travel between. For travel outside North America with your pet the best advice I can give you is this - start early (like yesterday), research thoroughly, and double-check everything. You will need at least a month's lead time, and for countries like Japan you may need six months or more.

This is also one situation where I'll tell you your veterinarian is not the expert; few vets ever send pets to Japan, let alone Moldova. They'll do everything they can to help, but ultimately it's your responsibility to become the expert and make sure everything Muffy needs to get where you're going is taken care of. This article should give you the tools to turn yourself into that expert. If you're serious about this, you might also start by make yourself a nice, calming cup of chamomile.

Before You Do Anything Else:

1. Contact the consulate of the country you are traveling to; this is the horse's mouth, so to speak, when it comes to what is required to get into that country. You must do what they require or they can detain your pet. You must know what the current and specific requirements are. 


2. APHIS is another good resource for export regulations. The country in question has the final word, but the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service maintains information on most countries at the website above, which may (or may not) help to clarify instructions from the consulate.


3. Research airlines. They all get to make their own rules about what can fly, how it flies, and how much it costs. Pets with significant health issues may be okay to fly in the cabin, but they should not fly in cargo - often that is the only option for international travel. Your flight plan is an additional consideration; if you have a layover in a country other than the destination you might need to make import arrangements for that country too.


4. Check out this article for tips on making travel less stressful for you and your pet.

Things You WILL Need:

1. Current rabies vaccination and certificate: Usually this must be done at least a month prior to travel, and for some countries can be six months or longer. This is currently all you need for Canada. Vaccination must also occur after microchip implantation.


2. Veterinary health certificate: Your vet will need to examine your pet and sign a form attesting that they are in good health and free of disease. APHIS Form 7001 is good for general travel; however, many countries require special certificates (especially if English is not the national language). Contact the country's consulate or check with APHIS to be sure. 


3. ISO Compliant microchip: Unfortunately, some US microchips may not work for international travel. ISO-compliant 134.2kHz chips are the current international standard. Check your pet's number, if it's 15 digits you're OK. If not, you'll need to get a new chip or bring a scanner with you. Excepting a few unique situations, I wouldn't recommend the later. A scanner costs $150-$200, and more importantly, if your pet were lost while traveling no one could read the chip to get them back to you.


4. USDA endorsement: Generally, you will be required to visit your local USDA office after getting a health certificate from your regular vet. You do not need to bring your pet with you, just all the documentation. They will make sure everything is in order, which is great since small mistakes - which can lead to big problems at foreign airports - are easy to make in this process.

Things You MAY Need:

1. Anti-Parasite Treatment: Many countries require treatment for parasites shortly before travel. This generally needs to be given by your veterinarian and attested to on the health certificate, so make the appointment with that in mind. As a side note, it may be worth considering a broad-spectrum deworming when you get home as a precaution against any unwanted stowaways in Muffy's gut. Talk to your vet.


2. Other Vaccines: Since they all get to make their own rules, countries may require all sorts of vaccines or treatments. Guam, for instance, requires Coronavirus vaccination...which is pretty silly if you ask me, since the vaccine is junk and the disease isn't very serious. But no one asks me, and if you want to take your pet overseas you have to play by that country's rules, period. It's also a good idea to ask your vet if there's anything Muffy hasn't had that might be recommended - Bordetella (kennel cough) and leptospirosis in particular.


3. FAVN (rabies) testing: This is a special blood test that verifies your pet has enough antibodies against rabies to prevent infection - in other words, that the pet was effectively vaccinated. It is required for import into most rabies-free countries and quite a few others as well. This often requires a lot of planning and time, since:

• Your pet generally needs at least two prior rabies vaccinations, at least two weeks prior to testing.
• At least one vaccination must happen after microchip implantation.
• Getting results often takes 2-4 weeks.
• After the test, there is usually a minimum waiting period before importation of anywhere from 3 weeks to 6 months.
• There's always the possibility your pet fails the test - though this is unlikely if they have a good vaccination history.

Your veterinarian likely runs few, if any, FAVN tests; look like a genius and tell them they can send the blood to Kansas State University for testing. Likewise, if there are any unusual vaccines, treatments, or forms required your veterinarian may need a significant heads-up period to get what you need, or may need to send you to another vet. Hardly anyone stocks coronavirus vaccine, for instance.

If you've read all this and you still want to travel internationally with your pet...I admire your fortitude. You either really love Muffy, or you're crazy. Probably a little of both. But with preparation and planning, it is manageable. 

Quick Tips for Pet Travel

Maybe you're headed on a big cross-country road trip. Maybe it's just a weekend with the in-laws a few hours away. Whatever the occasion, traveling with pets can be fun, exciting....and stressful. Poorly planned, it might even be dangerous. Today's article covers several easy tips to lower the stress level and keep things safe, so you can focus on relaxing and having a good time together.

Bear in mind this just refers to domestic travel by car; airlines and international travel are different beasts that will be covered in future articles.

1. Bring plenty of extra food / medications: This is an obvious one...so it should be no surprise it's the most common one folks forget. Imagine running out of food, having to substitute something else, and triggering a nice bout of diarrhea. While driving. In your car.


2. Seatbelts / carriers:  I'm not going to lie - my dog usually rides shotgun, unrestrained. He's also been dumped forcefully into the floor when I've had to slam the brakes. That wouldn't happen if I was smart enough to practice what I preach and get a pet seatbelt. Excited pets bouncing around the cabin isn't conducive to safe driving, either.


3. Windows up: I once witnessed a Yorkie jump out of the car window as it drove by the vet clinic I was working at. Good timing, I guess - but it nearly killed him.


4. LEASHES!: Never let your dog (or cat, or iguana) off leash in an unfamiliar place. I don't care how much you know/trust them - the unfamiliar sights, sounds, and smells could provide the unexpected surprise that leaves you spending the day searching for them, or worse.


5. Dealing with anxiety and car-sickness: Pheremone collars (DAP or Feliway) can help many pets with mild travel anxiety. For motion sickness or more significant anxiety, talk to your vet about Benadryl and other options.


6. Current flea & tick prevention: Make sure your pet's flea prevention will cover the duration of the trip; no one wants to finish off a vacation with a bunch of nasty new house guests. Do this even if you don't normally use a flea preventative - trust me. 


7. Microchips: Make sure your pet's microchip is registered to your current address. If they don't have a microchip consider getting one

Here are a few more things you may want to ring your veterinarian's office for:

1. Get a record or certificate of all vaccinations (and make sure they are up-to-date): Most hotels require up-to-date rabies vaccination at a minimum. Tell them where you are going, and ask if there are any other vaccines they'd recommend. These may include Bordetella, Leptospirosis, lyme disease, or others.


2. If your pet has any major medical history - chronic diseases under treatment or past major surgeries - ask for a copy of the medical record to take with you. Hopefully your pet won't need veterinary care during the trip, but if they do that record may be invaluable.


3. Ask your veterinarian about an official health certificate: may be required to enter certain states or to stay at some hotels, and all airlines require them. Your veterinarian can provide one after a thorough physical exam - which is itself valuable, since more than once I've picked up problems owners weren't aware of that might make travel a bad idea. Health certificates may only be good for a limited time (10 days for airlines), so set your appointment appropriately.

First Aid - How & When To Make Your Pet Puke

A bandage eaten by a dog. The ironic part?
It was from his tail amputation, which
resulted from his attempts to eat said tail.
He was not to be deterred.

Pets eat stuff. Sometimes things you, I, or even your average indiscriminate 3 year-old would never dream of eating. This first-aid article is about how to make your pet vomit that stuff back up again; but that's pretty simple (I know what you cat owners out there are thinking: all I need to make Muffy puke is a nice pair of shoes). The tough part is knowing when it's okay to do so - because in many situations inducing vomiting can make things WORSE. On the other hand, quickly getting certain toxins out of your pet could also save their life. So, this article is mostly about knowing the difference between those situations. Then we'll wrap up with quick instructions on inducing vomiting, without ruining your favorite shoes.

First thing's first - if your pet has eaten something you think may be harmful, call your vet or Animal Poison Control before attempting anything on your own. That's the guaranteed way to make sure you don't wind up doing more harm than good. It's also very possible your pet will need to go in for further treatment or monitoring. Oh, and one other thing - don't panic. That never helps, eh?

When You Should NEVER Induce Vomiting

• Your pet is in any way sedated, confused, weakened, or mentally altered: If their consciousness is altered, they may not be able to keep the vomit from getting into their windpipe - making a bad situation far worse.
• Household chemicals (detergents, cleaners, pesticides, etc): many of these are inherently caustic and can do much more damage coming back up again. Pesticides usually aren't harmful coming back up, but many can cause neurological effects (see #1) that predispose to aspirating stuff back into the lungs.
• Petroleum products: if they get into the airways on the way back up, they'll wreak all kinds of havoc.
• Anything sharp, or potentially sharp: It could puncture the esophagus or stomach in the process. Vomiting can be a good way to deal with ingestion of small foreign bodies, but it's best to leave that call to your vet - I generally recommend x-rays first (who knows what else is in there) and in-hospital monitoring (in case of choking) if we're going to try this.
• Your pet recently had surgery. 

Looking around the web for other's thoughts on the subject, I noticed many warnings against inducing vomiting if...they're already vomiting. Kinda seems that would go without saying - I guess my readers are smarter than theirs. Many also recommend against inducing vomiting if it's been over two hours; that's a textbook number for how long it should take to digest something. I haven't caught a dog reading a textbook yet, but I have seen more than a few toss stuff up long after it "should" have been digested. Often folks don't know when it happened, for that matter, and I wouldn't obsess over that 2 hour mark - though it's a good rule of thumb.

When TO Induce Vomiting

If you've ruled out all the above contraindications, and talked to your vet or APC, it's likely a good idea to induce vomiting if your pet has recently eaten the following:

• Potentially harmful foods.
• Prescription medications (yours, or overdoses of theirs)
• Antifreeze (caveat - this needs to happen fast, as it is absorbed very fast)
• Rodent poisons

What To Do AFTER Inducing Vomiting

Yes, we'll get to inducing vomiting in a minute. What you do next is extremely important, and I don't want you to stop reading after the punchline (like I would). 

• Obtain some of the vomit for potential ID by your vet.
• Gather the packages or product inserts for whatever you think they got into. We need to see the ingredient lists - I've got no idea what's in "Super Cleaner X."
• Closely monitor your pet.
• Unless you've talked to them and they told you not to, head to your vet's office or the nearest pet ER. Your pet's life could depend on further treatment; this isn't the time to "wait and see."

How To Induce Vomiting

Okay, here's the moment you've all been waiting for! 

• If your pet is a cat, stop reading: Don't try this unless specifically instructed by your vet. Peroxide makes kitty guts very unhappy.
• If your pet hasn't eaten much recently, offer a small meal: Bread is good, since it sponges stuff up. It's tough to vomit thoroughly when there isn't much in the stomach.
• Grab some 3% hydrogen peroxide - DO NOT use anything other than 3%: Stronger peroxide formulas like the stuff beauticians use can kill your pet.
• Get 1 milliliter per 2 lb into your pet: There's about 5ml in a teaspoon, so that's 1/2tsp for a 5lb chihuahuah or 4tsp for a 40lb border collie. Don't exceed 45ml per dose. You can use a syringe or turkey baster, but often if you just mix it in some ice cream or milk they'll do the work for you. You can repeat that dose once if it hasn't worked in 15 minutes.
• Get a towel: Put it in the back seat of your car. It's probably going to take 5-15 minutes to work, and you should be on your way to the vet. Yet another reason you should only do this if your vet tells you it's necessary, eh?
• Do all those things listed above in "AFTER Inducing Vomiting": Seriously.

Lastly, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER (!) induce vomiting on your own if your pet ingests large denominations of money. Leave that to the professionals - call me at home, I'll take care of it. I'll need to keep the evidence, of course - you don't want a bunch of nasty vomit-covered hundred dollar bills anyway, right?