Dope on a Rope? Quick Tips for Leash Training

It's almost comical how often I see dogs dragging their owners in and out of my door. I have this theory that twenty-something men concocted a formula where "manliness" is computed via a dog-to-wife weight ratio. Best of all, the macho husband is usually worse at controlling that monster Great Dane than his tiny, exasperated wife. The humor dies out, though, when you can't keep the dog from darting into traffic, attacking another animal, or you wind up at your own doc getting rotator cuff surgery. Today's article will provide tips on keeping Fido under control so everyone stays out of trouble.

Properly fitted Gentle Leader.

The Right Tools for the Job

Controlling your dog on a leash really boils down to training, but the right equipment can make the difference between success and giving up in frustration. Any pet can be trained to behave on any leash or collar. But you can also train to run a 5k on stilts - it's just a heck of a lot harder. Here are my suggestions for what equipment works, and what you should shy away from.

Gentle Leader (TM) head harness: These are awesome. One loop goes behind the head, one over the nose, and the leash attaches under the chin. This takes the dog's mechanical advantage away - it's no longer using the full force of it's legs to push that leash snapped on it's back forward, but instead it's trying to awkwardly push it's own head around. Unlike choke/pinch collars, this doesn't rely on making the dog uncomfortable, though some do think the slight pressure applied across the bridge of the nose may stimulate pressure points that help them focus, much like mom nipping their nose to get their attention. 

Note that the biggest problem folks have with these is not fitting them properly. Most leave them too loose, which is actually more uncomfortable than a tight fit because it allows the loops to slide and rub across the nose, while also reducing your control over the dog. Make sure and buy the one that includes the DVD - watch it, fit it right, and you can literally train your dog to heel in an afternoon.

Second handle = manual retraction = control

Retractable Leashes: Throw these away. There is no firm, certain boundary with a retractable leash - meaning they train dogs to constantly test their boundaries. Likewise, they train owners not to control their dogs. Buy a short, fixed-length leash. I particularly like the ones with a second handle near the collar to give you firm control when needed - like when passing a pack of yippy, tasty Corgi's on the sidewalk.

Choke/Pinch Collars: Many obedience schools will base their programs around them - my advice is find another school. It's an old method that can work, and does if you learn it thoroughly (like many folks who run those schools, to be fair). But hardly anyone becomes expert enough after a few classes, and used improperly they have the ability to do harm - unlike a standard collar or harness. Too often I hear dogs gagging in the lobby as they stubbornly forego oxygen to continue dragging their owner around. 

If you use these, ONLY leave them on the dog when you are attached to the other end and paying attention! They CAN catch them on things and asphyxiate themselves.

Harnesses: These don't really provide any advantages or disadvantages for controlling you pet, but they do have the benefit of not encouraging the dog to tug on his own windpipe. They're a good option for small dogs, where physical control isn't so much an issue. 

Ok. Sometimes
Scott Baio is in charge.

Training

Who's in charge? I'm in charge. 

The key to training your dog (or child, or spouse) to do anything is rewarding the behavior you want while not rewarding behavior you don't. In this case we don't need treats - the reward is being able to keep going forward toward that next wonderfully disgusting odor Rover just has to sniff. At the first tug on the leash, we stop. I'm in charge. No reprimand, no attention, just no movement until they relax, stop pulling, and focus on me. Then we go forward again until they start tugging - and repeat. It's simple, but it takes a lot of patience and a bit of time. It should also be clear why retractable leashes are so counter-productive; how do you learn what they boundaries are when they keep changing?

Just like your kids (or your husband), as soon as you start thinking you've almost got them trained and let your guard down a bit they'll be testing those boundaries hard-core. You must be vigilant. Tugging shall not result in moving forward! Keep at it. You're in charge. It's also worth emphasizing the importance of getting them to focus on you before they get rewarded- you are the one providing guidance, instructions, and rewards. Focus doesn't have to be visual, though - many dogs benefit from staying right up against your leg, quickly learning to read subtle signals in your movements. 

As with all training, the right equipment makes things easier - but at the end of the day it boils down to patience, consistency, and work. But you can do it - and for any dog over thirty or forty pounds, you really need to do it for everyone's sake. 

Quick Tip - Dealing with Firework Fears

It's so pretty! I think I'll go hide behind the toilet! 

Independence Day is here, when we celebrate our freedom to blow stuff up in the backyard, and consequently send half the dogs in the neighborhood cowering underneath the bed. With that in mind, I thought I'd share a few suggestions for easing everyone's stress this holiday. Some are short-term help that might be useful today; others are long-term projects geared towards a more well-adjusted canine companion. All are also equally applicable to similar fears, such as thunderstorms.

Safety First

• All dogs should be kept inside today, and leashes should be used for potty breaks/walks. This is one of the biggest days of the year for lost pets and hit-by-car accidents. Some firecrackers go off in the distance, and suddenly Muffy is over the fence and five blocks away.
• Likewise, make sure your pets have identification and your phone number on their collar. Microchips are good as well.
• We generally see a few firework-ingestion toxicities this time of year, too - keep that stuff put away!

Feeling Safe

• If you have a basement that's relatively sound-proof, it may be the perfect place for Fido to hang out today. What you don't know can't scare the living daylights out of you.
• Ever notice that your pet seems calmer when you hold them close, or that they tend to hide in tight spaces? Tight-fitting wraps may dramatically improve your pet's feeling of security and lessen anxiety. One good product is the Thundershirt; you can try improvising to help Spot out today by dressing him up in an appropriately-sized human tee-shirt and knotting the bottom to make it fit tighter.
• Many dogs that struggle with noise fears have already figured out a "safe place," usually a tight spot in a closet, under the bed, in their crate, or in my dog's case....behind the toilet. Often we're tempted to drag them out and console them, but it's generally best to leave them be - even to encourage them to seek these spots out.

Long-Term Improvement

• Try to desensitize fearful pets by exposing them to the problem at low levels in a controlled environment, gradually working up to full stimulus. For example, get a thunderstorm video and play it on low to start (guys - this a good wife-centered excuse to upgrade the home theater). Here's a good article that goes into more depth on desensitizing.

Better Living Through Chemistry

• Working through a desensitization process to overcome fears is always the best option. That's not always possible, though, and your veterinarian can prescribe medications to ease anxiety and lessen destructive or dangerous behaviors if necessary.
• There are a variety of nutritional supplements and pheromone-based products marketed over-the-counter that claim to calm pets. Always talk with your vet before putting anything in your dog - there's very little regulation of this stuff and lots of money to be made. One product that's safe and sometimes helpful is dog appeasing pheromone (DAP) - it's rarely enough for severe fears, but it can help some dogs. Tryptophan-based products may provide some helpful sedation, too (it's the stuff in turkey that leaves everyone passed out in front of the TV on Thanksgiving).
• A word about acepromazine, a drug sometimes prescribed for these problems. It is only a tranquilizer - it removes the ability/will to act out, but it does not reduce fear. That means Fido may sit there calmly, but inside he's likely still terrified - he just can't do anything about it. For dogs who become so panicked they are a danger to themselves and others it can be a valid option to keep them safe - but usually there are better choices.

Have any suggestions or questions of your own about dealing with noise phobias? I'd love to hear them; just click on the "comment" link below.

Quick Tip: Training Your Dog Not to Jump

Dude. Chill.

Clients often ask me how to get their pets to stop jumping up on them. If you're patient and consistent, it's a very easy behavior to change. You just need to keep in mind two basic principles: all behavior is reward-seeking, and it's easier to learn a new behavior than to unlearn an old one.

First, we have to remove the reward the dog is seeking - attention. When asked how they've tried to get their dog to stop jumping, many say they yell "stop!" and push them away. Well, that's not the best attention in the world, but for a dog it's better than being ignored. To get rid of the behavior you have to stop rewarding it: ignore the dog completely by silently turning away.

Secondly, the real trick is to teach the dog to do different, acceptable behavior to get the reward. The simplest example is teaching them to sit instead. At some point while bouncing around, trying to get your attention, the dog will likely sit on its own - immediately look at them and give a verbal reward ("good dog!"). If they don't do it on their own, you can issue your "sit" command once they stop jumping, but do not look at or otherwise interact with them until they sit. Whenever they stop sitting, ignore them again.

Much like a child throwing a tantrum , the dog may escalate the behavior in an attempt to get your attention, but be patient and consistent - they'll give up eventually. A useful trick if they won't settle down is to walk into another room, then quickly turn and shut them in when they follow, instituting a time-out without actually interacting with the pet (which would reinforce the undesirable behavior). Being patient and consistent are the toughest, most important parts. But stick with it - your dog will learn that the way to get the attention they want is to sit obediently in front of you, rather than bounce annoyingly on top of you.